Serbia is a fascinating country located in the heart of the Balkans. A lesser known travel destination with a rich history, diverse culture, amazing food, stunning landscapes and hospitable people, I chose to travel there as an off the beaten track location recently. The trip exceeded all my expectations, and I have returned home to New York enriched by all that I experienced in Serbia.
Serbia used to be a part of Yugoslavia for most of the 20th century, and its cities and architecture are a mix of surviving historical landmarks and modern buildings that are a stark contrast to the more utilitarian communist era buildings that all coexist in perfect harmony. Its natural landscape is still amazingly tourist free, food is amazing, and Serbians are friendly and fun loving, making it a great travel destination.
Serbia is very a very cost effective travel destination for hotels, food and sightseeing.
Table of Contents
- 1 Overview of Serbia
- 2 9 Day Trip to Serbia
- 2.1 Day 1 – Belgrade to Novi Sad
- 2.2 Day 2 – Fruska Gora Monasteries, Lake Palic, Subotica
- 2.3 Day 3 – Petrovaradin Fortress, Wineries
- 2.4 Day 4 – Mokra Gora, Šargan Eight Train, Drvengrad Timber Village
- 2.5 Day 5 – House on the River Drina, Uvac Canyon
- 2.6 Day 6 – Uvac to Belgrade
- 2.7 Day 7 – Belgrade Fortress, Knez Mihailova, Skadarlija
- 2.8 Day 8 – Belgrade National Museum, Nikola Tesla Museum
- 2.9 Day 9 – Departure from Belgrade
- 3 Eating Out in Serbia
- 4 Travel Considerations
- 5 Closing Thoughts
- 6 Planning your next trip?
Overview of Serbia
Serbia is a landlocked country located at the crossroads of southeast and central Europe in the heart of the Balkans region. It is bordered by multiple countries, which makes it easy to plan a to visit to multiple locations, including Hungary to the north, Romania to the northeast, Bulgaria to the southeast, North Macedonia to the south, Montenegro to the southwest, and Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina to the west.
Serbia has been a part of many civilizations through its history, which live on in its architecture, culture and cuisine. Its population of just under 7 million people are called Serbian, as is their language which uses the Cyrillic and Latin scripts.
Serbia’s diverse landscapes range from vast plains in the north and picturesque mountains in the south, offering opportunities for outdoor activities, including hiking, biking, and skiing. For more urban travel, the two largest cities in Serbia are Belgrade, which is one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world, and Novi Sad, which was the European Capital of Culture in 2022 and the European Youth Capital in 2019.
I had an opportunity to visit both the urban and natural wonders of Serbia during my 9 day trip there.
9 Day Trip to Serbia
We planned a 9 day trip to Serbia that was basically divided into 3 sections for travel around a visit to Novi Sad, the Uvac Special Nature Reserve, and Belgrade. Each destination had a large number of things to see and do, and we came away wishing we had more time to spend in each. We needed to rent a car for everything that we did in Novi Sad and Uvac, and chose to walk and use ride share services in Belgrade.
Day 1 – Belgrade to Novi Sad
We landed in Belgrade, rented a car from the airport and drove to Novi Sad. Novi Sad is well known for its arts and culture, and was the European Capital of Culture in 2022 and the European Youth Capital in 2019. Our hotel was in downtown Novi Sad, and we walked everywhere we went within downtown Novi Sad.
Novi Sad has a large selection of restaurants and bars to choose from, and has a number of options for live music. We used to follow the music everywhere we went, and ended up having a great time at each place. While the music is all in Serbian, the tunes they are set to are often recognizable pop and rock hits that everyone sings along to, and each venue would sing us a song in English at some point in the evening.
Day 2 – Fruska Gora Monasteries, Lake Palic, Subotica
Day 2 was a big driving day, and we visited some Fruska Gora monasteries, the historic city of Subotica and Lake Palic from Novi Sad.
Fruska Gora is actually a mountain range with old Orthodox monasteries that have survived multiple invasions. These are connected by walking trails, so you can choose to hike between a couple of them, or drive to cover more distance in a day.
The monasteries are all very unassuming from the outside, but they take your breath away as you enter. We visited Velika Remeta Monastery that was built during the end of the thirteenth century, and it has jaw dropping interiors. Traditionally attributed to King Stefan Dragutin, the monastery has deep historical roots dating back centuries. The monastic complex, featuring a church dedicated to Saint Dimitri, is nestled near the source of the Šelovrenac stream, and has been recognized as a Monument of Culture of Exceptional Importance by the Republic of Serbia.
The second one we visited was Monastery Grgeteg which was founded in the 15th Century by Despot Zmaj Ognjeni Vuk, also known as Vuk Grgurević. The monastery’s historical records date back to the mid-16th century, adding to its cultural and historical importance.
We were practically the only visitors in both monasteries as we chose to visit early.
On the drive back, we drove to Lake Palic, which is a beautiful lake that was on our way to the city of Subotica. The GPS guided us to a section of the lake that had a lot of locals fishing, so we missed the built out part of the lake that is more of a tourist attraction. Subotica was a part of Austria – Hungary till WWI. It has the highest Catholic population and the most art nouveau buildings in the country. The city’s standout attraction is the stunning City Hall, which features beautiful stained-glass windows and decorative ceramic elements which are beautifully lit up at night, which we were happy to experience.
Day 3 – Petrovaradin Fortress, Wineries
On Day 3, we kept it local in Novi Sad, which is the capital of the Vojvodina region, and Serbia’s second-largest city. We started the day at the Petrovaradin Fortress, which is at an elevation and offers panoramic views of the city and the Danube River. While today it hosts the annual Exit Festival, it has held great significance as the second largest fortress in Europe on the river of the Danube, with a network of anti mine underground tunnels that have served many purposes. The fortress is also referred to as the Gibraltar of the Danube, and has a Clock Tower where the little hand is for minutes and the big hand is for hours to enable people on boats to read the time from a distance.
In the afternoon, we visited Đurđić Winery, which is one of the many wineries near Novi Sad, for a wine tasting.
Day 4 – Mokra Gora, Šargan Eight Train, Drvengrad Timber Village
Day 4 was a busy day on the road as we drove from Novi Sad to the village of Mokra Gora, which is located in the Zlatibor Mountains. We made an early start to make it for a ride on the Šargan Eight train, which is a picturesque train ride on narrow gauge tracks through the mountains to Šargan Vitasi. The train ride is 40 minutes on the way there and crosses 22 tunnels and 5 bridges, and takes longer on the way back as it makes multiple stops for photo ops and refreshments. The entire ride is about three hours.
We then visited the timber village at Drvengrad. Originally built for the movie, Life is a Miracle, by Emir Kusturica, the village has a church, log cabins and timber houses, with streets named after famous people such as Novak Djokovic and Nikola Tesla. Drvengrad offers a diverse array of attractions, including an art gallery, library, underground cinema, Stanley Kubrick theater, traditional pastry shop, and restaurant. Additionally, the village is renowned for hosting the international Küstendorf Film Festival, established by Emir Kusturica, adding to its cultural significance and appeal.
We stayed at a charming vacation rental owned by a retired Math professor who brewed his own Raki, a traditional alcoholic beverage, which he was happy to share with us.
Day 5 – House on the River Drina, Uvac Canyon
On Day 5, we made our way from Mokra Gora to Uvac through Tara National Park. Our first stop for the day was the House on the River Drina, which is a perched on a rocky outcrop in the middle of the Drina River near the town of Bajina Bašta. Built in 1968 by a group of swimmers, it has become the most photographed location in Serbia since it graced a cover of National Geographic. While it has been destroyed by rising water levels in the river multiple times, it continues to be rebuilt and sits in the river between Serbia and Bosnia and Herzegovina.
We then started to make our way to the lookout point for the Uvac Canyon. The drive took us through fall colors of the Tara National Park, which were stunning. The last part of the drive was on a dirt road that was not well marked, and ended in a spot that did not look like we were at any kind of destination, other than the fact that the dirt road ended there. We followed a trodden path to seemingly nowhere, which opened up to a view of the breathtaking Uvac Canyon. Pictures cannot do it justice, and it was both exhilarating and terrifying to be the only people on this mountaintop. We walked along the mountainside till we stumbled upon a lookout point, which we had all to ourselves.
Uvac Canyon is one of Serbia’s premier natural sites, characterized by its dramatic, winding landscape. It is home to the Eurasian griffon vulture, which we did not see, and it also offers boat tours in the canyon, though the water levels were too low for these when we visited.
We spent the night at a vacation rental overlooking this view, which was just exquisite.
Day 6 – Uvac to Belgrade
Day 6 was a long drive back to Belgrade, where we returned the car and chose to stay at a hotel at the City Center. Known as the “city that never sleeps,” similar to New York which I call home, Belgrade has a vibrant and dynamic atmosphere that runs through its neighborhoods, cafés, bars, and clubs. As the capital of Serbia, Belgrade has a lot to offer with its landmarks, history, museums, and especially as the birthplace of Nikola Tesla.
Day 7 – Belgrade Fortress, Knez Mihailova, Skadarlija
On Day 7, we made our way to Kalemegdan, or the Belgrade Fortress. Located on the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, it was initially built during the Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman periods, and has undergone numerous transformations, reflecting the diverse influences that have shaped its architecture and significance. Today, it serves as a cultural hub, housing museums, galleries, and offering panoramic views of the surrounding area. The fortress also encompasses the Kalemegdan Park, a sprawling green space with amazing views.
We spent the afternoon walking on Knez Mihailova Street, a bustling pedestrian thoroughfare that is lined with shops, cafes, and historical buildings. The street connects the Kalemegdan Fortress with the Republic Square, and is a focal point for locals and tourists alike.
We also visited Skadarlija, which is a bohemian and cultural area in Belgrade.
While we missed the floating boat clubs in Belgrade that operate only during the summer, we stumbled on to an amazing jazz club called Strogi Centar by following the sound of music, and had the most unexpectedly fun night with live jazz.
While smoking in bars and restaurants is being actively considered in Serbia, it was permitted when we visited, which can be overwhelming given most places do not permit it globally anymore.
Day 8 – Belgrade National Museum, Nikola Tesla Museum
The last day of our trip to Serbia was all about the museums, starting with the National Museum.
The National Museum in Belgrade was established in 1844 and has a diverse collection of art, archaeological, and historical exhibits, and offers a journey through Serbia’s past. It is located in the central zone of Belgrade, and has a collection of over 200,000 artifacts.
We then made our way to the Tesla Museum, which is a celebration of all things Nikola Tesla, who is the renowned inventor and physicist of Serbian descent that invented electricity as we use it today. This museum is housed in a residential villa, and includes a wealth of Tesla’s personal effects, scientific documents, and technical drawings. Our favorite was the interactive display that demonstrated how Alternating Current works that we got to participate in. This museum was of special interest to me as Nikola Tesla spent the last 10 years of his life in New York at the New Yorker Hotel, which has a history exhibit that celebrates Tesla, and has even named his room and study the Nikola Tesla Room and the Nikola Tesla Study in his honor.
Day 9 – Departure from Belgrade
Day 9 was a travel day back home to New York from the Nikola Tesla Airport in Belgrade with memories and photographs that will last a lifetime.
Eating Out in Serbia
The food in Serbia is a reflection of the country’s diverse cultural influences, and is hearty and flavorful. Serbian food features an abundance of grilled meats, fresh vegetables, and bread. One of our favorite dishes was ćevapi, a type of grilled minced meat, typically served with flatbread and ajvar, a savory red pepper condiment. Additionally, sarma, a dish of rolled cabbage leaves stuffed with a savory filling, and pljeskavica, a seasoned meat patty, were delicious and featured on most menus. Spreads and dips that accompanied most meals were dairy products like kajmak, a creamy dairy spread, and ajvar, a flavorful pepper-based condiment.
The general recommendation we saw was to tip 10% for good service, which we generally followed.
Serbian wine is also becoming well known globally, and is easy to find in restaurants. Local vineyards are definitely worth a visit for the wine tastings.
Most of the Raki that is sold is home made, so there is no guarantee about the quality or potency of the alcohol. It is important to keep this in mind, especially if you have a busy travel schedule the following day!
Travel Considerations
- Best Time to Visit – While summer is considered the best time to visit Serbia when Belgrade’s famous boat clubs are open, I actually had an opportunity to visit during fall in October, when the fall colors in the National Parks more than made up for missing the clubs in Belgrade.
- Cost – Serbia is very cost effective to visit, and we found ourselves saying that it felt like we were getting an experience equivalent to 80% of Europe at 50% of the price, even though this is not entirely an accurate characterization as Serbia has so much that is unique to it to offer.
- Weather – Given Serbia’s geographical location, the weather is a blend of Continental and Mediterranean climates depending on the region.
- Language – English is commonly spoken in Serbia, so we could always find someone to translate for us even if the person we were speaking to, especially in the more remote areas, did not speak English.
- Currency – The official currency of Serbia is the Serbian Dinar. Cash is widely accepted, as are credit cards such as Visa and Mastercard in most hotels, restaurants, and stores.
- Visa for US Citizens – Planning a trip to Serbia was easy as US Citizens do not need a visa to visit Serbia for up to 90 days, and there are plenty of flight options with connections from the US.
- Safety – We found Serbia to be a safe country, and did not have any concerns when we were out in the day or even late at night.
- Transportation – We found it necessary to rent a car to reach all the places we were interested in visiting, though it was not necessary within the larger cities like Belgrade and Novi Sad.
- Indoor Smoking – Smoking indoors is still permitted in Serbia, and Serbians tend to be heavy smokers. This can be particularly overwhelming in bars at night.
Closing Thoughts
Serbia is an amazing travel destination that has surprisingly managed to stay off the beaten track, and is definitely worth considering especially given how cost effective it is to visit. The culture, people, landscape, food and history make it a good fit for visitors with varied interests. The cities are vibrant and culturally forward, while the natural landscape is virtually untouched and offers outdoor activities including hiking, cycling and skiing.
Bio
Hanit Gyani is a New Yorker with a passion for travel, new experiences, and expanding her horizons. She has a blog about all things New York, which she manages in addition to her full time job as a professional. Hanit has a personal goal of visiting at least one new country a year, and Serbia was an unexpectedly amazing addition to her list.
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